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June 12, 2014
 

The only way to remotely use high speed sync with flashes

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Written by: Lawrence
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So what is High Speed Sync?

If you want the definition, then you need to check out this wiki. What matters to me is what High Speed Sync allows me to do in photography.

Do you hate when you take a picture of a person outside in the sun, the person’s face is either too dark and the background is correctly exposed or the person’s face is correctly exposed and the detail of the background is blown out?

Having issues with achieving a shallow depth of field even when shooting at 200MM in the sun?

With High Speed Sync, these issues will be non-existent. Below I’ll show you how I utilize this cool feature to enhance my out in the sun images and also solve common exposure problems.

PREPARATION

  • Identify the situation and if the environment presents itself to use High Speed Sync then I’ll show you how I utilize this amazing feature. Below are a few questions to ask yourself to determine if High Speed Sync is an option.

o   What time is your photo shoot?

  • If you are shooting outside the golden hours, then make sure your subject is in open shade.

o   Would you be able to place your flash within 3-6 feet from the subject?

  • If you only have one flash and can’t be at least 6 feet away, then you will need at least two flashes to have enough power to overpower.

PhotographySILO_Gorillapod_lakewood-country-club__LAP7581

PHOTOGRAPHY GEAR USED AND FOR WHAT PURPOSE

  • DSLR
  • Flash with TTL capability
  • Lightstand
  • Flash trigger with TTL ability (For this article, I am using pocketwizard Flex TT5 and the AC3 when I have more than one flash for remote power adjustments)

PhotographySILO_pocketwizard-Christmas_PIG_8022

CAMERA AND LIGHT SETTINGS

  • First you will need to meter for the ambient light

o   Ambient light = A

o   Camera = – 1 stop of A

o   Main Light Flash = + ½ stop of A set to TTL mode (check your wireless trigger instructions for what to set your flash)

o   Edge Light Flash = + 1 stop of A set to TTL mode

COMPOSITION

  • Ensure your subject is at least a 1/3 of the frame.

POSITIONING

  • If you only have one light, then use the sun as a backlight for edge and the flash as main or fill to add depth to your subject.

Below is an example of where High Speed Sync allowed me to shoot at a low f-number at 12 noon overhead sun.

It was a fairly hot cloudless day for my nieces school outdoor performance. The stage was covered to provide a slight shade. Although, there were a few breaks in the shade which caused some harsh light to pass through.

PhotographySILO_20140509untitled shoot_LAP2777

After I assessed the situation, I then proceeded with flash placement. I had two flashes attached to Pocketwizard Flex TT5s and two Joby Flash Clamp and Locking Arm to mount on the stage and speaker stands.

PhotographySILO_20140509untitled shoot_LAP2833

I positioned the flashes at about head level on each side of the stage to provide a main and on some occasions an edge since there wasn’t enough sun for an edge light but just enough sun that without high speed sync I would be limited to using f8-f16. Since I wanted to isolate my niece blur everyone not in the same focal plane, I had to use an aperture of f2.8 to 5.6.

I’d love to see how you utilized high speed sync in your work. Please post your image/s at the PhotographySILO Flickr Group https://www.flickr.com/groups/photographysilo

PhotographySILO_20140509untitled shoot_LAP2751

 

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About the Author

Lawrence
Lawrence Atienza is a Jack of all Trades and Master of ALL. Whether it be in the realm of Advertising/Advertising operations with over 10+ years of experience to dabbling in the creative realm of photography and founding/writing for http://www.PhotographySILO.com, Lawrence Atienza gives his all. You can find him on Google+,Twitter and the major social media outlets.



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